To easily check your work, or if you find the guide on the nailer awkward to use, make a simple plywood jig like the one shown as a guide for the 5-inch reveal. If the roof is steep enough that you could slide off, install roof jacks and planks to keep you stable and safe.
A scrap of roofing laid upside down beneath the heel of the jack will keep it from denting the shingles. When you encounter a plumbing vent pipe, shingle up to it so the flashing will rest on a row of shingles below the pipe.
You may need to cut out part of the rubber flange so it fits over the pipe. Apply roofing cement a caulk tube is usually the neatest and easiest method where it will rest on top of shingles.
Slip the flashing over the pipe and press it in place. Drive nails around the perimeter as recommended by the manufacturer. Roof around the vent. Cut the upper shingles so they fit snugly but do not ride up on the flashing's raised portion; the shingles should lie flat at all points. Where shingles overlap the flashing, attach them with roofing cement rather than nails. Cover any exposed nailheads with dabs of roofing cement. To roof around a dormer or other obstruction, install shingles all the way up and run at least one course past the obstruction.
The bottom of these courses must be nailed higher than usual so you can slip shingles under them later. Now you can snap a new bond line to align the shingles on the other side. Apply flashing at a wall. Where a wall is perpendicular to the roofing, slip pieces of step flashing under the siding. Apply a flashing piece, then a shingle, then flashing, as you would apply step flashing for a chimney.
If the roof meets a wall that is parallel to the shingles, roof up to the wall, then slip a long, continuous piece of flashing under the siding and on top of the shingles. When you reach a peak or hip, shingle all the way up the first side until the reveal portion of the shingles is within 4 inches of the peak and cut the 3-tab shingles just below the ridge.
Shingle the other side and allow these pieces to overlap the ridge by no more than 4 inches. When hips meet at a ridge, you may have to improvise to handle awkward areas. Just be sure that water will not seep in between shingles as it runs downward.
Where two hips meet a ridge, cut a triangular piece to cover the joint. Then apply ridgecaps. If you have a hip that runs into the main roof, cover the area with WSU when you are installing the sheathing; cut the WSU so it lies flat at all points.
Then cover the resulting V-shape notch with another piece of WSU. When you install the shingles, leave one shingle unnailed so you can later slip a ridgecap under it. To cut ridgecaps, turn shingles upside down and cut off single tabs. Angle the cuts slightly so the nonreveal portions will not be visible when the caps are installed. Make a cut on the backside, then bend and break the shingle. Using a 5-inch reveal, estimate the number of caps needed.
Prepare the ridge by snapping chalklines 6 inches on each side. Install ridgecaps along the lines, leaving a 5-inch reveal. Shingle to the middle of the ridge, then start from the other end. Where the ridgecaps meet, install a 5-inch-wide strip. Cover nailheads with dabs of roofing cement. If you have a hip that runs into the main roof, cover the area with waterproof shingle underlayment WSU when you are installing the sheathing; cut the WSU so it lies flat at all points.
This can be the wind-sheltered side of your house, on a covered patio or inside the garage. Weatherproof the doghouse. Use an outside covering such as house wrap over the roof and walls.
Insulate the doghouse. Protect the doghouse entrance. Heat the doghouse. Ceiling Insulate the ceiling of the doghouse to protect against winter cold and summer heat.
Reinforce a flimsy dog roof by installing rigid foam insulation. Cover the outside roof with a tarp or house wrap to cut heat loss from the inside and to block cold rain or snow from the outside.
A good blanket, sheet, or towel can make a simple and effective bedding for your dog. A nice, fluffy rug can make an excellent bedding for your dog. Dog Beds. Wood Chips. Hay and Straw. Saw Dust. Obviously, you'll need to use your judgment to determine when the temperatures are too low for your dog to remain outdoors.
No matter the material, dog houses need adequate ventilation. A few quarter-sized air holes near the top of the house are sufficient to provide proper air flow. Your dog will very likely love a house with a covered porch area. Most wooden dog houses use cedar , pine, or fir wood in construction. Tip: Use wood that has a non-toxic sealant or stain. This ensures that the house is water-resistant and free of harmful chemicals.
Higher-end dog houses can cost thousands of dollars. Tip: Don't use pressure treated wood for the inside flooring of the dog house , chemicals used to treat the wood are not good for your pets to walk on. Pressure treated wood should only be used where it might come in direct contact with moisture. The safest and most efficient way to heat your outdoor dog house, and keep it heated, is with a temperature-controlled heating pad.
Hay Bedding. The most economical way to keep your doghouse warm is with simple long stem grass hay. Electric Heater. Solar Powered. It is not possible to catch shingles from another person. However, a person can transmit the virus through the fluid within shingles blisters. A person who has never had chicken pox may develop it, and later shingles , after coming into contact with this fluid. Apply self-adhesive flashing tape to corners and around windows and doors.
Take special care not to crease the wrap or flashings. Install exterior trim around the windows and doors as needed. Be sure to choose a wood stain or material for the trim that will complement your new shingle siding.
If you plan to weave the shingles at outside corners see steps 6 and 7 , you don't need outside corner trim. Use a story pole to lay out courses and help you avoid using narrow pieces above or below windows and doors. You may choose to raise or lower the bottom course to achieve the desired layout see step 10 or use the swing-stick method to keep the layout consistent.
Mark the layout all around the house. Install inside corner trim pieces. Ideally, these should not be too visible, but they must be wide enough to provide room for caulking after the shingles are installed.
Hold up several layers of shingles to make sure the trim is thick enough. Install the first starter-course piece at a corner. It should run past the corner by about 1 inch. Use a small level to hold it plumb and attach with two nails or staples.
Less-expensive, low-grade shingles can be used as the starter course. Install a piece on the other side of the corner butted against the first piece. Use a utility knife to roughly cut the first piece. Slice once or twice, then snap the shingle apart. If needed, you can cut shingles using a table saw, chop saw, or radial-arm saw.
In the example shown, the miter gauge is used to cut corner pieces at a slight angle, which eliminates the need to knife-trim perhaps even planing smooth the corner pieces. If you use a circular saw, clamp the shingle first to keep your fingers away from the blade. If the grain is straight and knot-free, use a utility knife to make simple cuts. You may need to touch up the split for a smooth edge. Use a small block plane or Surform tool to trim the shingle edge flush.
When building a corner, trim and plane each piece before moving on to the next course. Make a jig as shown as a quick, failsafe way to keep the courses even. Use a straight 1x4 as the guide and 1x2s as the hangers. Check that it's level and fasten it with 3-inch screws.
The starter course is made of two layers of shingles. You will likely need to cut the last pieces in each row. You can hand-nail shingles, but the job goes faster with a pneumatic nailer or stapler.
A stapler is used most often because it is less likely to split the shingles. Even if you are shingling just a single wall, renting power equipment will be worth the cost. Adjust the stapler so it drives the staples just flush and does not indent them. When you hit a stud, the staple may not sink in completely; drive the staple flush with a hammer.
Use galvanized nails or staples for most of the job, but stainless-steel nails are the best choice wherever the heads will show. Build up the corners. The bottom course which is on top of the starter course may be anywhere from 1 to 4 inches above the starter course, depending on your layout.
To maintain correct exposures, use a homemade exposure guide. Drive nails or staples about 1 inch above the exposure so they will be covered. Be sure to check your layout marks every few courses. Trim and plane a corner board before you install the next course.
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